
POSTED BY KIM — It’s amaryllis season! I asked my neighbors Peter and Renate yesterday about the status of their beautiful red amaryllis, which they had in their front window last year (and I enjoyed for several weeks from the view at my kitchen window). They weren’t familiar with the forced dormancy period required to stimulate new blooms, so let me pass along what I’ve learned:
1. When you get a new amaryllis bulb, as many people are doing right now, plant it according to the illustration below. Instead of compost, regular potting soil will work fine.
2. Place the pot in bright, indirect light. Water sparingly. After the bulb blooms and the flower withers, cut it off just in back of the bloom, removing the green lump in back of the blossom. You don’t want the flower to waste energy forming seeds.
When all blooms on the top of the main stem are spent and removed, cut the main stem off 2 inches above the bulb. Keep the pot in the same light situation and allow leaves to grow — this will send nutrients to the bulb.
3. In the summer, the bulb can be moved outdoors. Either pop it in the ground, or let it remain in the container. Amaryllis like to be root-bound, so don’t worry about repotting. Water and fertilize as you would any flowering plant.
4. Lift the bulb or bring back indoors *before* the first frost of season. Remove any dead leaves. For the bulb to flower again, you must force the plant into dormancy. Put the potted amaryllis in a cool (55 degrees F), dimly-lit place such as a cellar or heated garage for 6-8 weeks. Don’t water.
5. End the dormancy period 6-8 weeks before you want the flowers to bloom. Bring it out, water thoroughly the first time, then sparingly after that. You start the bulb “life cycle” here, treating it as you would a newly purchased fall amaryllis bulb.
6. Enjoy!
For more detailed amaryllis growing instructions, you might want to check out this article.